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À La Découverte
4354 Christophe-Colomb. Mont-Royal métro. BYOB

RESERVATIONS: 529-8377. HOURS: 5:30 p.m. on, Thurs.—Sun. Groups of 15 or more may/should reserve Mon.—Wed. NO-SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES—TABLE D'HÔTE: $23.75—$29.75 (five courses). CREDIT CARDS: Visa.
Located on a tree-lined street near Lafontaine park, À la Découverte (a triple pun indicating their street's namesake's discovery of North America, the European chef-owner's discovery of our continent, and their patrons' discovery of this tiny resto, in the middle of a residential street) soldiers on with the solid kind of French fare that has made and kept their reputation.

The decor is minimalist, but efforts have been made to dress up what is essentially a cozy square room, with subdued, indirect lighting and gauze tulle that adorns a large mirror set against dark green walls.

A Gazpacho soup tasted lately was fresh and delicately spiced, while the velouté de homard (lobster cream soup) drew a mixed review, some thinking it was rich, tasty, and perfectly seasoned, and others finding it lacked elegance. The scallops here are served slightly chilled in a vinaigrette and sprinkled with parsley.

The medaillons de veau farci à la bourgeoise (veal in a white wine sauce with mushrooms, red peppers and bay onions) were as soft as butter and very succulent; the supreme de volaille farcie au sanglier et orange confit, sauce Madagascar (chicken breast stuffed with boar) managed to be rich and flavourful without being too heavy. Lebanese- born chef Jocelyn has a special way with pommes de terre dauphinois (potato gratin)—this seemingly simple dish is as complex as a symphony when done well, as it is here. The service, by Sylvia, the Alsatian co-owner, is helpful and courteous.

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