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Au Bain-Marie
1214 St. Andre St.

Open Mon.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Sat. from 5:30 p.m. to l 10 p.m. Closed Sun. Licensed. Major credit cards. 286-9011.
This little place specializes in boar, duck, caribou, deer and other game meats (which, in Quebec, must be ranch-raised for restaurants, not hunted). The tiny menu changes often. Main dishes are almost all game or fish.

An appetizer of salmon rillettes—raw and smoked salmon creamed together—was delightful. A main plate of caribou, duck and deer, each sauced separately, showed skill in preparing sauces strong enough to stand up to these vigorous meats. This kitchen pays attention to detail, and the result is comforting and satisfying.



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