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2004 Hôtel-de-Ville. Saint-Laurent métro.

RESERVATIONS: 982-0853. HOURS: 5 p.m. on. NO-SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES -TABLE D'HÔTE: $14.50—$27. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard, Amex, Diners Club.
The Bazou dream lives on, and chef-owner-concept-creator Yves Dion's twin restaurants (the second is at 1271 Amherst) continue to put forward his French/Asian/Californian cuisine meets 50’s kitsch "Garage-sale chic" decor concept for an appreciative public (including us). Something's new at Bazou, although it can be hard to pin down exactly what: the menu has changed slightly recently, but the well selected collection of nostalgic post-war jazz plays on. By Bazou standards, the decor (red and blue primary colours, plus a cozy back "winter getaway" section with a grey stone wall) and kitsch objets d'art seem to have been slightly toned down, yet the intimate and funky feeling remains. If anything, the food is better. The main meals are a little expensive, but come with soup or salad.

The menu still reads like an automobile repair bill (Bazou is Quebec French for an old, beat-up car): the gorgeously and wildly presented hors d'oeuvres like the crevettes thai suzuki (grilled shrimp in a peanut butter and hot sauce), the escargots ferrart (escargots in puff pastry with a cream sauce that has an elegant hint of anise), and the BMW (beets and goat's cheese with balsamic vinegar) all whet the appetite for more craziness to come in the entrées.

The effiloche volare (volcano of chili with red peppers on vermicelli) and the duo Maserati (cannelloni with four meats, sauce napolitaine) both have wild flavour combinations and forward flavours in common. The outrageous, oversized china—a unique piece for each dish—is another thought-provoking part of the concept: nice touch!

Try the yummy desserts—Yves has the touch here, as well. Aside from our perennial favourite, the fondant au chocolat sur crème anglaise, try the gâteau au fromage, coulis aux pêches, and the uncharacteristically simple (for Bazou) tarte au sucre.

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