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Bistinga
1199 Van Horne Ave.

Open weekdays from noon to about 2:30 p.m.; Mon.Thur. from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Licensed. Major credit cards. 270-6162.
This cozy little bistro artfully mixes the classic and the imaginative in a menu that shows a predilection for fish and seafood. Appetizers are where the flair shows the most, as in the smoked salmon blind or the tender, garlicky escargot in a hollowed baked potato.

Desserts, too, are lively: the soft, chewy, spicy gingerbread, topped with a poached pear served warm and ringed with a caramel sauce, was worth the trip and cost only $4.50. Reservations a must.



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