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Cali
1011 Saint-Laurent Blvd. Saint-Laurent or Champ-de-Mars métro

Tel. 876-1064. Every day, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
$12 for two before beer, taxes and service. No credit cards.

Looking for the best "fire" soups in town? You've found them! Right here, in this cavernous yet unprepossessing location in Chinatown. A lot of Asians, of course, have beaten you to it. It doesn't get any tastier. Chopsticks, a napkin holder and plastic spoons dominate the table until the arrival of a gigantic bowl of bean sprouts and basil. A slice of lime and a pepper reborn as a phoenix complete the picture. Paradise on $5 a day. Large bowls of broiled chicken with nuoc mam. Wimpy Vietnamese beer. Fluorescent lights and air conditioning in the summer. Fluorescent lights and electric baseboards in winter.

Sample menu: Spring rolls, imperial rolls, cochin chinoise soup, vermicelli and grilled chicken or shrimp plate, red bean and coconut milk drink, soy milk, iced condensed milk cafe.



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