Open Mon-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sat. from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun. from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Licensed. Major credit cards. (514) 382-3618.
Sitting lonely and graceful on an industrial stretch of St. Laurent Blvd., La Cantina offers old-world service, rare, private-import wines, a warm and glittering room, and the attentions of bon-vivant owner Domenico Fazioli. The menu was highlighted by astounding, full-flavour black truffle risotto and excellent gnocchi.
Very good appetizers included grilled oyster mushrooms, marinated octopus and arugula salad. Equally great were desserts like tiramisu and homemade chocolate cake. Stick to antipasto risotto-dessert for a fine, Italianate evening of dining.