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Castillon, Le
1 Place Bonaventure (in the Bonaventure Hilton Hotel)

Open Mon.-Fri. from noon to 2:30 p.m.; Sun.-Fri. from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday for special events from 7 p.m. to midnight. Licensed. Major credit cards. 878-2332.
A pioneer of the posh, overdecorated restaurant, this 30-year-old place offers an intentionally luxurious interior and an irresistible, spacious terrace where one dines by the side of tall trees and running brooks.

It is a setting that belies the nonstop location of this downtown hotel power eatery. The cooking is geared to the "average" palate, with well-done textures and timid spicing, but it is all wonderfully garnished and artfully presented. The cream soups are good, the rack of lamb is prime, and the salmon-trout is very fresh. Exemplary service, good wines, reasonable prices (average $35 per person) and a fabulous setting. Reservations recommended.



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