Open Mon.-Fri. from noon to 2:30 p.m.; Mon.Sat. from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Closed Sunday. Licensed. Major credit cards, except En Route. 392-1568.
Moved from The Main to a charming but out-of-the-way historic building in the old town, this subterranean Roman restaurant offers a sophisticated and distinctive menu. A seafood antipasto plate ($15) was unsurprising, but a pasta dish ($20)fettuccine with porciniwas worth the price of the whole meal: the earthy, autumnal mushroom flavour permeated every strand of pasta.
Main courses included a vast, thin tuna steak in marinara sauce: ($20). Roast meats are a specialty here, and maialino al forno ($20), roast baby pig, was a three-dimensional Rock of Gibraltar of meat, mahogany-brown and delicious.