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Piccolo Diavolo
1336 Sainte-Catherine E. Beaudry metro

Tel. 526-1336. Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Every day, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. $55 for two before wine, taxes and tip. Table d'hôte : $7.95—$11.95 (noon); $14—$19 (evening).
After the closing of his much-beloved Montréo, chef Jacques Faucher returned to theVillage to officiate over this diabolically sombre restaurant with its buddy-buddy menu. If the Village is off your beaten path, you'll find it worth the detour to check out the sinful delights cooked up by a chef in full control of his technique, who specializes in a nonspecialized cuisine. All-you-can-eat antipasti at noon. Italian wine list. Good choice of wines by the glass. The waiters look like they're chosen for their looks, and act like they're chosen for their efficiency.

Sample menu: Pesto minestrone, beef carpaccio with tapenade, smoked mozzarella focaccia, goat-cheese pizza with pistachios and tomato preserve, mushroom pie, freshly grilled tuna on a spiced balsamic vinegar sauce, citrus veal scallop, Amaretto crême brûlée, cappuccino cheese cake, apple raspberry pie.

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