4705 Sources Blvd., Dollard des Ormeaux.
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Open Mon.-Thurs. from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; until 11 p.m. Fri. Sat. from 5 to 1-1 P.m. Closed Sun. Licensed. Major credit cards. (514) 683-0011.
It's a boring box on a charmless street, but once you get inside, Emilio's transports you. Graceful design, lots of space and attention to detail create a spirit of optimism as you order. The menu goes on and on, with table d'hôte meals in the $20 range plus a few pizzas, lots of pastas, veal and seafood.
The appetizer portobello mushrooms with bocconcini and roasted red peppers were perfect. Roast veal and lamb each came with a wonderfully aromatic deglazed pan sauce. Pastas are neither overcooked nor oversauced.
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