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Bistro L'Entrepont
4622 Hôtel-de-Ville, near Mont-Royal. Mont-Royal métro. BYOB

RESERVATIONS: 845-1369. HOURS: 6 p.m. -10 p.m., Tues.—Sat. 6 p.m.—9 p.m., Sun. and Mon. NO SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES—TABLE D'HÔTE.- $17—$20. CREDIT CARDS: Mastercard.
If you've ever wondered what it feels like to have a little brother or sister who suddenly grows up and is bigger, prettier, smarter, or makes more money than you, then you know what L'Entrepont is going through. Although little sister Les Hétiers does exchange chefs with L’Entrepont from time to time to keep fresh, and although some might feel the food is essentially the same at both establishments, we gave Les Héritiers the slight edge because dinner there is such an elegant experience.

Now, that being said, we've still rated L'Entrepont as a four and a half star night-out because it has the mood, set in part by the classical-looking, Burgundy-coloured trompe-d’oeil columns and stenciled leaves set against the white walls, in part by the limited seating and intimate atmosphere, and in part by the dreamy white Paris bistro facade. The location of L'Entrepont is also good and rather intriguing: unlikely, yet not far from the beaten track.

Invariably, the dishes are exquisitely presented, savoury examples of an inspired cuisine A marché approach. The hors d'oeuvres, whether the terrine maison, the salade de chèvre chaud, or the escargots en palte feuilletée, sauce bechamel/fromage bleu, are all very pleasing.

For the main course, the frequently available noisettes de porc, sauce au poivre et aux bleuets, the filet mignon, the magret de canard and the confit de canard aux flageolets are always delectable. The desserts are, simply, sinful yet elegant. Try the marquise fondant au chocolat avec crème anglaise or opt for the dacquoise (almond and hazelnut biscuits served in a butter coffee cream). he service is friendly, but choose the second sitting on the weekend if you like to linger over your meal: people in the early sitting may tend to feel hurried out.

L'Entrepont is one of the original French BYOBs, and it set the standards which the others now follow. Despite the tight table spacing, weekend noisiness, and double sittings policy, it is worth visiting (preferably on a weeknight) again and again.

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