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Flambard, Le
851 Rachel E. Mont-Royal métro. BYOB

RESERVATIONS: 596-1280. HOURS: 5:30 p.m.—10:30 p.m., 7 days a week. NO-SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES—TABLE D’HÔTE: $14.75—$22.75. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard.
Le Flambard means the bon vivant, but it is also the front part of a boat, and that is the key to this funky little Rachel St. resto. The owner, an ex-sailor, has placed little reminders of his sailing days throughout this bistro-style restaurant. If the too brightly lit, mirrors and hunter green decor isn't quite up to the smoky Parisian feel of their lamented Papineau location, the food certainly meets or surpasses the standards set by the former.

There is a definite preference for Lyon-style food at Le Flambard, currently it is the only BYOB resto to offer salade aux lardons, rosette de Lyon, quenelles de brocher, etc. The salade aux lardons is tangy and delicate (tasted in summer when lettuce is at its tender best), and gets our vote for being the best in the city—a pretty close version to the incredibly good ones we've had in Lyon itself!

The main plates here are quite good, with our favourites being the filet de truite aux fines herbes du Périgord, the quenelles de brochet, the tian de petoncles avec sauce au vin blanc, as well as the fairly standard carre d'agneau.

Throughout your meal, you'll be serenaded by the sweet sounds of la chanson française, and you can feast your eyes on photographs of "Paris as it was, " a funny choice for a chef who so obviously loves Lyon! If you have sophisticated offspring, there is a special children's menu as well, a rare thing for a Plateau bistro.

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