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Flocon, Le
540 Duluth E. Mont-Royal or Sherbrooke métro. BYOB

RESERVATIONS: 844-0713. HOURS: 4 P.M. on. Closed Mon. NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES -TABLE YHOTE: $10.50—$20. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard, Amex.
The big news here is that Le Flocon has opened up the front plate-glass windows, and the front tables are the "place to be" on breezy summer evenings on Duluth. Seated there, you can soak up some of the kinetic energy of Duluth.

Chef Nicholas Kottos is still at the helm here (long-time fans will remember he founded the now- defunct La Chamade), and his seasonally adjusted table d'hôte chalkboard always contains variations on the following favourites: filet de saumon de l’Atlantique au vinaigre de framboises, beef bavette in various imaginative sauces, rognons de veau aux deux moutardes, poulet a l'estragon, his much-loved foie de veau sauce citron, noix d'agneau, magret de canard, mignons de boeuf aux pleurotes, and poisson du soir.

To be honest, the cuisine never reaches stratospheric heights, but Kottos' talent and commitment to quality are always reliable: the food at Le Flocon can be counted on. As well, their eighty-plus seating capacity is convenient when you are feeling too impulsive to have made a reservation anywhere, and there are queues of hungry souls outside every other decent Duluth eatery.

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