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Gargote, La
351 place d'Youville. Square Victoria métro

Tel. 844-1428. Monday to Friday, noon to 2 p.m. Every evening, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. $30 for two before wine, taxes and tip. Table d'hôte: $9.95—$13.95 (noon; dessert included); $10.95—$14.95 (evening; dessert included).
The humble title of this restaurant (La Gargote's idiomatic translation would be "The Greasy Spoon") attests on the one hand to its casual atmosphere, yet belies, on the other, the quality of the cuisine. Local shopkeepers, businesspersons and lawyers pop in on a regular basis to share an apértif with the patron, or refuel at lunchtime on the terrace (in the middle of the street!) on Place d'Youville. The intermingling of European accents, the afternoon sun bouncing off the surrounding greystone buildings, the clopping of the horse hoofs pulling the tourists in calèches, in short the feeling of a home-away-from-home adds to the unique charm of this provincial retreat. French cuisine and menu du jour only. Easy access to parking (meters) at Place d'Youville. Tourist-friendly.

Sample menu: Coriander salmon ceviche, basil escargot croustade, Marengo calf sweetmeat pie, fish soup, penne arrabbiate, halibut tofu with mild garlic, fowl papillote in filo pastry, sautéed calf with tarragon, teriyaki beef tenderloin, fruit salad sprinkled with nuts.

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