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78 de la Gauchetière St. W.
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Open Mon.-Fri. from 11:30. a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. Sat.-Sun. from 4 p.m. to midnight. Licensed. Major credit cards. (514) 395-8023.
Closer to elegance than most places in Chinatown, this serenely uncluttered little place aspires to rise above diner grade. As so often happens, though, the clean linen and polite waiters come with dishes that are a little tame, a little lacking in the zing one finds in some plainer restaurants.
Still, everything is nice and fresh, and the menu is varied. Despite the name, the food comes from all over the map of China. Appetizers were generally more rewarding than, the main-course items.
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