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Louisiane, La
5850 Sherbrooke W. Vendôme métro. Bus 105

Tel. 369-3073. Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday, 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Closed Monday. $55 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $7—$12 (noon), $15—$19 (evening).
The singular spirit of Louisiana permeates this West End anglo restaurant. The kitchen is open onto the main room, the large windows onto the street, and the menu onto the world—the perfect setting to explore the explosive melange of crazy Cajun cookin' and American nouvelle cuisine. The new chef, Philippe Gouin, is a veritable frenchy-food fanatic, unafraid to douse his creations in hot peppers. This here's Tabasco territory. Homemade corn bread. Heavy desserts. Truckers' portions, bring your own rig. No reservations accepted on Friday or Saturday, idiosyncratically enough. Servers exhibit uncommon caring. Any less formal than this and youre wrasslin' crocodiles on the bayou.

Sample menu: Kidney bean soup, hushpuppies, sweet potato fries, Creole onion rings, chicken étouffée, jambalaya, crab cakes in spiced Creole sauce, blackened fish (don't try this at home, folks), New Orleans bread pudding, two-chocolate pecan pie.

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