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Laloux
250 Pine Ave. E.

Reservations recommended. Open Mon.-Fri from noon to 3 p.m.; Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sun.-Wed. from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., until 11:30 p.m. Thu.-Sat. Licensed. Major credit cards. 287-9127.
Very Parisian, very joyful, very civilized, Laloux is a haven for those seeking a quick fix of affordable French-style luxury, whether on the leafy-floral terrace or in the handsome, spacious interior. Highlights are a shimmering scallop mousse ($4.75 with the table d'hote); dreamy potato crepe with smoked salmon and caviar ($28.50); and zesty sea bass with tomato and basil ($22.50 including soup and dessert).

Excellent service and great, reasonably priced wines.



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