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Latini, Le
1130 Jeanne Mance St.

Open Mon.-Fri. from.11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 p.m.- 11:45 p.m. Sat. 5 p.m.- 11:45 p.m., Sunday 4 p.m.-10 p.m.. Licensed. Cash. 393-3456
Dinner last night at Latini.

Life is too short for a young waiter who, when I ask for something from the wine list similar to a Chablis informs me "What is Chablis? I only know about Italian wines."

Life is too short for $18 a crustacean, soft shelled crab, that smells as if it had spent its last desperate hour in a bucket of floor washing detergent before receiving a ritual charring, and then served on a chipped plate, and a waiter who swears that the crab was fresh but maybe the grill was dirty.

Life is too short for veal paillarde served naked, crying for a sauce of wild mushrooms.

Life is too short for sweetbreads whose delicacy lie undiscovered in a swamp of tomato sauce.

Life is too short for a wonderful heaping of rapini and fresh clams on spaghettini and a five minute wait for the waiter to come over and grate the few peppercorns that this dish demands to give it an edge toward perfection.

Life is too short for a dessert of sumptuous tiramisu and a waiter who, upon hearing our sighs of contentment, says "well at least some dishes were good."

Life is definitely too short, in possibly the most expensive restaurant in town, to have a senior waiter come over, agree with everything and say, "next time ask for me." —
Reviewed by Barry Lazar

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