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Maistre, La
5700 Monkland. Villa-Maria métro. Bus 103 or 162

Tel. 481-2109. Tuesday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday and Monday for groups (with reservations) $45 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $8—$14.50 (noon); $19.25—$24.95 (evening).
Established in an upper-muddled-class home on Monkland Avenue, Le Maistre will spoil you with a crackling fire in the winter, and a breezy terrace in the hot summer months.The table d'hôte is a bargain in any season. The future of French cuisine is in good hands with chef Régis Caron. He understands the foibles of his clientele, and his clientele comes back for more. Affable service. A big house that doesn't need to put on airs. The bread's not great. All à la carte main courses can also be ordered with the table d'hôte. Smokers have the upper hand, to the detriment of those with a fetish for oxygen.

Sample menu: Goat's cheese terrine with red pepper and basil, asparagus tips with mussel sabayon and citronella, duck foie gras mousse with Armagnac, salad Niçoise with smoked lardons, grilled swordfish with fennel, duck confit salad with Sarladaise potatoes, Québec leg of lamb with flageolets, pan-fried pompano a la nage de légumes, duck breast with citrus fruit and pink berries guanaja mousse with orange marmalade, homemade sherbet with hazelnut cocoa biscuits.

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