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Marivaude, La
1652 Ontario E. Papineau métro. Bus 43

Tel. 522-9897. Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday. $35 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $7.95—$10.95 (noon); $10.95—$18.95 (evening).
A charming port of call, presided over by a playful iconoclast intent on standing culinary precedent on its pompous little head. Chef Cécile Breton specializes in the part of the animal that would normally be left on the floor of the abattoir! Fortunately for the more squeamish amongst us, this doesn't include the bollocks... yet. She prepares the best kidneys in Montréal, however, and her tongue of beef in a delectable sauce rémoulade will convince you that offal is not a misspelling of awful.
$11.95 gets you a meal for smaller appetites.

Sample menu: Calf sweetbread ravioli with St. George’s mushrooms and foie gras, marrow and onion preserve, calf tongue with gribiche sauce, goat and sun-dried tomato profiteroles, marsala veal paupiette, veal cutlet with bordelaise sauce, calf liver with sauce normande, filo pastry with pears and ca!f sweetbread, choco noix, crème brûlée.

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