Open Sat. from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun. from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Mon.-Fri. from noon to 3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., until 10:30 p.m. Mon. Licensed. All major credit cards. 861-6733.
Jacques Muller's unchanging menu and high standards have created a haven for many of Montreal's legal/business/political elite. The menu is sophisticated but overwhelmingly meaty. "We're not here to put little decorations on the plate," Muller says. "People here know what they want."
That's often the pescadou et sa rouquine, a dark, aromatic fish soup served with garlic mayonnaise, grated cheese and little toastsand simply not to be missed. Many sauces here involve wine or liqueurs. Main dishes enjoyed included lamb loin with marrow in port-wine sauce, and quail in puff pastry, both with garlicky scalloped potatoes, broccoli, snow peas, zucchini and squash. Desserts were equally timeless and equally good.