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Mauvais Garçons, Les
4466 Marquette. Mont-Royal métro.

RESERVATIONS: 524-7989. HOURS: 6 p.m. on. Closed Mon. and Tues. NO-SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. PRICES—TABLE D’HÔTE: $12.95—$23.95. Five-course meals: $20.95—$31.95. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Interac
Les Mauvais Garçons (the bad boys) is both the title of a song by the "rebellious" French singer, Johnny Halliday, and the name of a street in the Marais quarter of Paris.

In Montreal, Les Mauvais Garçons is yet another wonderful little backstreet French restaurant tucked away on the Plateau, offering unpretentious French food at a decent price.

The decor is subdued, done in shades of grey with hints of blue. The tables are dressed with burgundy over white tablecloths, and their taste in music and art (African masks and other original pieces) is eclectic. The otherwise practical slate floor unfortunately reflects sound and adds to the general noise level.

On a recent visit, the tomato-basil soup was creamy and rich; the applescented salade du marché was a treat; the salmon was delicate and perfectly cooked; the gibier sausages (their avowed specialty) were tender and fragrant. A ratatouille served along with the main dishes was fresh and tasty, and the escargots en crème and homemade pate de gibier were considerably better than average.

While the saucier (sauce-maker) may not have quite the deft touch of the wizards at Yoyo and Le P’tit Plateau, this is a new address that we'll be watching closely for developments.

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