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3500 Saint-Laurent Blvd. Saint-Laurent métro. Bus 55

Tel. 844-0027. Sunday to Wednesday, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to midnight. $100 for two before wine, taxes and tip.
This magnificent restaurant on Saint-Laurent Boulevard seems to have mastered the difficult marriage between a clientele that goes for gold, and a cuisine with integrity. Chef Claude Pelletier specializes in quality produce, freshness and eye-catching presentations—a combination that can be daring and tempting at the same time. If only there were a couple of vegetarian dishes worthy of this Mediterranean cuisine. And, for the grand finale: an assortment of desserts from the menu that'Il have you breaking your new diet in no time. Olive oil in fine carafes on the table. Wine list with Italian and Californian wines exclusively. Valet parking. In the summertime, make reservations for a window table.

Sample menu: Avocado tartar and tuna sashimi, pan-fried foie gras de canard with light polenta, chicken tandoori-stuffed spring rolls with apple, date and almond salsa, grilled salmon pavé with warmfennel and compote in a grapefruit and sake sauce, grilled veal cutlets with black olive and rosemary fondue, soufflé iced with espresso, caramelized banana rivage, grand finale.

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