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Papillon Bleu
200 St. Jacques St. W.

Open Mon.-Fri. from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sat. from noon to 11 p.m. Sun. from 1 to 10 p.m. Licensed. Major credit cards. 849-8499
Busy at lunch, this spacious, modern place in the old financial district is quiet at dinnertime. The menu is extensive but not surprising, and the dishes sampled were uniformly competent; prices are moderate.

Crispy beef with sesame was tangy, pleasantly salty, bracingly crisp under the teeth. Orange chicken was lively: boneless slices of breast meat sautéed in a tart, peppery sauce with a hint of green onion and bits of orange pulp. Noodle dishes were generous.



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