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Pégase, Le
1831 Gilford. Laurier métro. BYOB

RESERVATIONS: 522-0487. HOURS: 5:30 p.m. on. Closed Sun. and Mon. NO-SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. PRICES—TABLE D'HÔTE: $29.50. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard.
Le Pégase is the last BYOB restaurant you'll come to in the heavenly constellation of French bistros located on or around Gilford to the east of Christophe Colomb. The new large murals, done in yellow and terra-cotta earth tones on peach walls, are offset by wood antiques and white linen tablecloths, giving the place a sunny, elegant atmosphere. You'll easily forget that this intimate restaurant was the lower floor of a duplex in another life!

Instead of merely gazing at their gorgeous fresh flower arrangements after you've decided what to order, take the time to look at the menu's cover: each has a traditional Parisian song-sheet illustration. In fact, many aspects of Le Pégase are evocative of a favourite, inexpensive little Paris restaurant, which you would want to keep a secret.

Funnily enough, though, chef Vincent Boudet is not from Paris at all, but from Cahors, below Bordeaux in southwest France—and that's why his confit de canard (often made with prunes here) vies with that of Alain Loivel (his friend at Le P'tit Plateau) for the honours of being the best we’ve tasted. The constantly changing soups are delicate and velouté (velvety) here, and the salade tiede de lardons dressed up au vinaigre balsamique or the magret de canard, vinaigrette aux échalotes are just delicious. The salade tiede de caille aux amandes and the terrine maison aux pruneaux are also worth a taste. Depending on what is available on any given night, you may want to try the carre d'agneau aux herbes, sauce moutarde, the tournedos de raie, concassée de tomates, the tournedos de cerf (deer) aux champignons sauvages, the escalope de saumon aux épices cajuns, sauce aux moules, or the magret de canard aux framboises.

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