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4621 Saint-Denis Laurier métro
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Tel. 843-8928. Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. $45 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $14.50—$20.
As the chef's experience and confidence grows, he's cutting the umbilical cord to his native Italy. Although chef Tonio Di Liello still favours pasta imported from back home and fresh produce from nearby Jean Talon market, the cuisine is showing decidedly Californian and Québécols influences. The chef even kneads his own bread dough. Wax crayons to make the little ones feel welcome—and give the rest of us a little peace. Sauces prepared individually. Pretty porcelain cups cradle the tiramisu.
Sample menu: Spinach and egg soup, rabbit-prune sausages with cranberry and thyme sauce, tagliatelle Santa Fe, veal ravioli with gorgonzola and sun-dried tomato sauce, Italian rice with wild mushrooms, tiramisu, chocolate ricotta tourte.
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