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4723 Saint-Denis. Laurier métro.
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RESERVATIONS:284-7723. HOURS: 5:30p.m.—10.30p.m. Closed Sun. and Mon. NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. PRICES—TABLE D’HÔTE: $23.50. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard.
Although the emphasis at this new upper Saint-Denis resto/bistro would seem to be on the cuisine de Provence (the only one in town!), there is a fair bit of standard French and Italian on the menu. One of the best provençale dishes was a starter, the soupe au poisson et sa rouille, a deliciously rich fish soup with tomato, accompanied by an exquisite red pepper and saffron rouille and homemade garlic croutons on the side.
The table d'hôte had a variety of different dishes to tempt our palates. For the hors d'oeuvre, try the escargots façon provençale, the artichauts frais avec vinaigrette balsamique, or the rillettes de lapin au poivre rose. Of the main dishes sampled, the magret de canard avec sauce aux bleuets was good, if not exciting; the feullleté dc petoncles à la fondue de poireaux was delicate; and the proven(ale choice, the brandade de morue (salt cod) was intensely flavoured and very, very filling.
Quartier St-Louis offers a number of pasta dishes for those not tempted by proven(ale food. (Italy IS very close to Provence). One pasta tried was the fettucine au chevre et aux noix de pin, a truly rich and flavourful combination. The puttanesca, however, was a bit disappointing. In all, though, the choice was abundant and the food solid.
Quartier St-Louis boasts a French chef who obviously is quite skilled, and we hope they will continue to refine their menu, placing the accent on provençale food. If they do, they will undoubtedly continue to thrive.
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