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6834 Saint-Laurent Blvd. De Castelnau métro
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Tel. 271-3929. Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday to Wednesday, 5:30 p.m. to midnight. Thursday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. $90 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $9—$19 (noon).
Quelli Della Notte (Creatures of the Night) engendered its fair share of gossip when it opened. Outside, white stretch limos deposited the gutterati attached to brobdignanian cigars. Inside the envious hoi-polloi ogled as this week's success story celebrated the latest acquisition while devouring chef Pomano's excellent cuisine. One can't help but feel that on the other side of the upholstered sarcophagus-entrance of this Little Italy restaurant, someone's being made a deal they can't refuse. Underground (literally) cigar lounge near the bar. A private room for four people! Several types of homemade bread on the table. The inevitable mediocre olive oil in a little dish, but you could always ask for butter...
Sample menu: Polenta and sautéed wild mushrooms, spinach and pigeon preserve salad, grilled red pepper terrine with whitefish, bouillabaisse, veal ravioli, cuttlefish ink fettuccelle with fresh clams, seafood risotto, grilled lamb and goat's cheese polenta, grilled veal cutlets with eVplant rolls, osso buco cremolato, sushi and sashimi, pistachio pot de crême, chocolate and hazelnut feuilleté, coffee and amaretto parfait.
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