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Remparts, Les
93 de la Commune St. F.

Tel. 392-1649. Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m to 2:30 p.m. Every evening, 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. $75 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $10.50—$15.50 (noon).
Another revisit after a two year absence. Whisked to our table, drink orders taken in an instant. On a Sunday evening in March, the room is half full and it's easy to see why. This may be one of Montreal's best dining experiences at the present time.

Cream of lentil soup with mint was different and excellently prepared and presented. Spouse was not that hungry so only one appetizer order. Presto, two spoons appear out of the blue.

Main courses of Charlevoix veal chop and venison medallions are perfectly cooked and presented. Accompanying potatoes and vegetable just firm to the touch. Problem? Both plates were awash in reduced stock, excellent in itself, but it drowned the meat and the vegetables. Would ask for the sauce on the side next time.

Dessert was an incredible maple syrup crême brulée accompanied by a gratis late-harvest Riesling. In fact, the wine service here is so professional, the list so well chosen and fairly priced that it ranks up there with my other favorite, Laloux. Indeed, the service here is so outstanding that most New York, Geneva and Zurich restaurants pale by comparison. Now if only, again, they could turn off the "sauce" tap.

Word of warning if you drive here: park on Rue de la Commune, not on St.-Gabriel, which is reserved for residents of the area with permit stickers. I didn't see the sign and received "greetings" to the tune of 42$CDN. Question arises that if parking is so scarce then why were there four vacant spaces ahead of me? Oh well, the law is the law!

Food ***1/2 Decor *** Service **** Cost $$$$

Reviewed by Joe Mathews

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