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3842 Saint-Denis Sherbrooke métro

Tel. 499-2084. Every day, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Closed noon except for groups with reservations. $95 for two before wine, taxes and service.
Normand Laprise and his restaurant have managed, thus far, to survive that greatest of all hurdles: success. Government mandarins, American tourists, and the vaguely familiar, looking famil\iarly vague, all flock to this spot, even if only to say they've been here. Whether your budget can survive all this success, however, is another question. Get invited, it hurts less (a lot less). Good wine list of two hundred labels. Good choice of half bottles. Excellent liqueurs and ports by the glass. Private room for twenty. A menu de dégustation in five courses will allow you to sample everything for $58. Québec products... put to good use. Normand flits back forth between Montréal and his new outlet in New York. Service as professional as ever. Normand Laprise and Christine Lamarche wouldn't send it out of the kitchen if it wasn't fit for a god. Designer décor, designer kitchen, designer clientele, New York menu, New York bill.

Sample menu: Pot-roasted squid in black olives and homemade ketchup with ratatouille au gratin, Cap-Saint Ignace quail with raspberry sauce and celeriac rémoulade, avocado and lemongrass salmon tartar with corn niblets and taro chips, a few leaves out of M. Colhmeyer's herb garden, roasted stingray with cumin flageolets and jalapeño salsa, roasted Boileau deer haunch with juniper berries, unpasteurized cheese plate, crème brûlée with Madagascar vanilla, chocolate millefeuille gourmand and pineapple sherbet.

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