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Trestevere
1237 Crescent St.

Open Mon.-Fri. from noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sat. from 5 p.m. to midnight. Closed Sun. Licensed. Major credit cards. 866-3226.
A 25-year-old standby, this grotto-like, warm, retro restaurant serves its Italian standards charmingly and affordably on its checkered tablecloths with its professional, knowledgeable service, its limited, all-Italian wine list, and its air of instant familiarity in the heart of one of Montreal's most highly charged neighbourhoods.

All the cooking is satisfactory if old-fashioned, with glorious tomato sauce, dreamy-creamy manicotti stuffed with ricotta and Swiss chard, oily-delicious grilled vegetables, and several butter-tender versions of veal scalloping. Even the tiramisu is good. Reservations on weekends.



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