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Van Roy
1095 Clark. Place-d'Armes métro

Tel. 871-1724 Every day, 11 a.m. to 4 a.m. $25 for two before cognac, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $3.95 (noon).
Post-midnight chow mein munchies? Starving for ginger lobster at teatime? Anytime's the right time for this authentic fant-Asian resto. Local Chinese canteen that hasn't changed since the opium wars. If you try all 228 dishes on the menu without finding one that really pleases you, well, you could always order one of the special dishes that aren't on it. I'd suggest the clams in a black bean sauce (were you to ask). The homemade egg rolls are also very rewarding. The walter will give you a plece of paper and a blunt pencil to write down your choices. Don't take offense at dour faces, the heart still sings.

Watercress and seafood soup, Chinese vegetable soup, homemade cabbage egg rolls, sautéed escargots in chili sauce, lobster with ginger and spring onions, sautéed shrimps and snowpeas, frogs' legs in black bean sauce, beef with Chinese broccoli, rice with chicken and satay sauce.

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